How To Lower The Front On A 1985 Chevy Truck
Shop 1985 Chevy C10 Control Arms and get Free Shipping on orders over $99 at Speedway Motors, the Racing and Rodding Specialists. 1985 Chevy C10 Control Arms in-stock with same-day shipping. Truck All Street Race Truck. 73-87 Chevy, 73-87 GMC, Front Lower Position, Steel Ships Free Position. It may be time for a front end alignment. The front end alignment is perhaps ≡ Menu. Home and Auto Repair. Instructionals, reviews, and money saving tips. Do it Yourself front end alignment on a chevy 1500 or other car – How to adjust alignment. Repeat this procedure for the other side of the car or truck. When completed, your front end. The spindle is the part that sticks out from the side of the car with the wheel off. The wheel bearings rotate on the spindle. Although it’s the most expensive and time consuming way to lower your coil spring front end, it’s also the only way that’s guaranteed to not change the alignment much.
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I don't know if I even really want to try this yet because I plan on towing a trailer, but I was just wondering about this.It's a 1990 chevy 1500 and I think it would be a little cooler if it was a little lower, maybe as low as the trailer so everything sits level. I think it would require it to be about 4' lower in the rear and maybe 2' in the front. I was looking a little last night and my thoughts now are droped spindles for the front and a raised schackel for the rear.I'm just wondering and thinking right now, but what have you guys done and how did it work out?Thanks. That sounds like a wise way to do it. Easier (and cheaper) would be to cut the front springs, but that changes the geometry of the suspension enough where it may effect handling somewhat- Same basic suspension as my Chevelle. I cut the front Moroso Trick springs to the desired height (as per the instructions) and then it settled.
It currently sits perhaps a half inch from the bump stops.With the drop spindles, you still have the proper geometry of the A arms, plenty of room for suspension travel, the factory ride quality. Same with rear shackles.You may have to buy shorter shocks. For a 4' rear drop it needs new spring hangers and a shackle, just a shackle will drop it about 2'.
In the front I would use a drop spring if it was me. With spindles you have to trim the a-arm to clear the wheels unless you use wheels larger than 17'. I had a 93 I lowered 4/6 and the required a rear flip and a frame notch in the rear and a spindle and a spring for the front. It was a little low for alot or trailer use. If I did it again I would have proably just went 2/2 with a coil and shackle.
I wonder if the bit I posted made the move to the new digs? I lowered my 81 Chev truck with a 2/4 that was drop spindles, and drop front bracket on the rear. It was the easiest lowering I've ever done. And worked very well, as it preserved the ride and the carrying capacity. Also really cheap IIRC 200 delivered off ebay.
Hardest part was air-hammering off the rivets on the hanger (but that was even pretty easy). Didn't even have to buy new shocks or need to align it because everything moved relative to its stock position. For a 4' rear drop it needs new spring hangers and a shackle, just a shackle will drop it about 2'. In the front I would use a drop spring if it was me.
How To Lower The Front On A 1985 Chevy Truck Parts
With spindles you have to trim the a-arm to clear the wheels unless you use wheels larger than 17'. I had a 93 I lowered 4/6 and the required a rear flip and a frame notch in the rear and a spindle and a spring for the front. It was a little low for alot or trailer use. If I did it again I would have proably just went 2/2 with a coil and shackle.So, you don't think a 15' wheel will work with a 2' droped spindle? How much do you think I would have to cut/grind on the a/arms?It might just be better to leave the front alone and drop the rear 2'. So, you don't think a 15' wheel will work with a 2' droped spindle? How much do you think I would have to cut/grind on the a/arms?It might just be better to leave the front alone and drop the rear 2'.You have to trim off the 'raingutter' part of the a-arm.
It's not terrible it just has to be done so they don't rub on tight turns. I had 17' aluminum wheels on my truck and it needed to be trimmed some with them. Also I don't know if it is true but I heard belltech spindles increase the track width, I used djm spindles on mine.You could get a rear shackle for now and see how you lime it, they are cheap enough. Worst case you put it back stock or get a 2' spring for the front latter.